Terroir

Attention Terroir fans: as of last weekend, the ultra-popular wine bar is serving brunch! So you'll have another chance to grab one of the bar's coveted seats. There are four new dishes: French toast with warm maple syrup and pork sausage, bacon egg and cheese on ciabatta, a rapini-bacon frittata, and smoked salmon sandwich with capers and hard-boiled eggs.

I took my seat at the bar this past Sunday morning, anxious to try one of the new brunch items. But I was distracted by the regular menu, specifically the fried mozzarella and the white anchovy panini. All sandwiches are served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread, and while it would be almost impossible to make a mediocre sandwich with that bread, mine was particularly delicious. The crusty toasted ciabatta was splashed with a bit of balsamic, and then topped with crunchy frisee, delicately sliced hard-boiled eggs (more yolk than white), sweet pickled red onions, and marvelous white anchovies. Everything was sprinkled with a bit of black pepper (it's the details that are important!). I also devoured a bowl of parsley-and-Parmesan-dusted fried bocconcini in a hearty tomato sauce. (Next time I intend to take advantage of the charcuterie and cheese; I'm curious about a cheese with the name "Constant Bliss.")

It was too early for me to have some wine, but I enjoyed reading the funky little book of a menu - it contained a history of Chateauneuf du Pape, a large list of Rieslings with residual sugar, and a tongue-in-cheek poem entitled "Wine In A Box."

The restaurant owners, Marco Canora and Paul Grieco, have such a fixation with sherry that they serve free glasses of it from 5-6. They've also employed a designer to create a line of temporary "Jerez" tattoos! "I think I'm going to cover my entire body with them for Halloween," the bartender told me. He also informed me that there was a special bacon crumb cake dessert (I think I saw something similar to this at the Dessert Truck), but I was too full.

I find it interesting that the coasters implore the customers not to waste their food. At Terroir, how could you?

Terroir: 413 East 12th St. No phone.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News items for October 30, 2008:

• Kyotofu, the Japanese bakery, is celebrating its second anniversary by handing out free sweets! Stop by today and pick up some shiso-coconut and yuzu-vanilla cupcakes. (705 9th Ave., 212-974-6012.)
  

• Are you looking for some scary sweets for Halloween? Silver Moon Bakery has just what you need: pumpkin shortbread cookies, orange-iced chocolate and vanilla buttercream cupcakes, and "ghost cakes!" There's also a "bread of the dead." (Spooky!) (2740 Broadway, 212-866-4717.)

• As you may know, Chocolatier Magazine, and its sister publication, Pastry Art & Design, have been consolidated into the new Dessert Professional Magazine. If you pick up the September/October issue, you'll see my little guide to eating all of the chocolate in Torino, Italy.
  

Lucky Cheng's

Lucky Cheng's, which might be described as a meeting between China Grill and La Cage Aux Folles, is something of a New York institution. Since 1993, it's been famous for its impossibly fabulous drag queen waitresses and risque dinner shows. There's lots of entertainment: off-color comedy routines, balloons fashioned into shapes you'd never see at a children's party, souvenir thongs, and a tableside tarot reader named Angel Eye. (I don't know if she gives financial forecasts.) The three-course dinner-and-show combo is $32, with supplements for certain items.

When I visited this weekend, the couple next to me was utilizing Angel Eye's services. The music was such a volume that the boyfriend didn't hear his date ask the psychic about marriage. No matter, he was soon pulled onstage by "Rhapsody In Blue," an amazingly athletic dancer with glittering blue eyeshadow. Rhapsody announced the start of the amateur lap dance competition. An entire table of 21-year-olds dissolved into giggles as the boyfriend was relieved of his shirt. (He wouldn't be the last victim!)

As for the food, I found the fried-er, the better! My favorite dish was a plate of three jumbo shrimp encased in a thinly fried crust. Other items seemed to differ from the menu descriptions; there weren't any black sesame seeds in the black-and-white sesame salmon, and a Thai basil pesto was more like a black bean sauce. (But who really cares when you've having so much fun? Besides, there's cheesecake with raspberries and whipped cream for dessert.) The couple next to me enjoyed their fried rice and pan-roasted duck, although the boyfriend was too busy dancing to eat most of it.

The lap dance winners were chosen, smiles abounded and my mood was much lighter than it was at the start of the evening. (Have to stop watching that C-SPAN.) I went over to the host to thank him for a fun night, and when I told him my pseudonym, he said, "Salli Vates - that's a great drag name."

Lucky Cheng's: 24 1st Ave., (212) 995-5500.

A Sweet Trip to Beacon, NY

Beacon, a sort of Williamsburg-on-the-Hudson, is known for its spectacular modern art museum and countless small galleries. It's also a great place to enjoy the fall foliage. Best of all, the town offers many opportunities for serious sugar shock!

Beacon is home to Dutchess County's oldest candy store, the Alps Sweet Shop (269 Main St., 845-831-8240). Alps sells all the old favorites like champagne truffles, fruit gels, almond turtles and licorice, but it's the Halloween candy that is truly impressive! Chocolate witches, jack-o-lanterns, bats, eyeballs, spiders, skulls and ghosts will delight your trick-or-treaters. If you like your sweets less macabre, treat yourself to one of Alps' amazing "Ultimate Apples." (Don't worry, they're not that virtuous - heavy layers of chocolate and caramel have robbed them of most nutritional content.)

After you've filled your goodie bag, go across the street to Max's on Main (46 Main St., 845-838-6297). There, you'll find two of the most decadent desserts known to man: the Fi-Doh-Doh (a blondie covered with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, white chocolate and caramel glaze) and the Fi-Dah-Dah (the chocolate bundt cake variation).

The Upper Crust Cafe & Bakery is no more (it will soon be an upscale cafe), but HomeSpun Foods (232 Main St., 845-831-5096) is a wonderful stopover for pastry. Crumbly, buttery pear/raspberry jam scones, fig tarts, bread pudding and fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies are some of the delights served at HomeSpun. Also, check out the small gift section; it features beautifully-designed Ludomar chocolate bars.

Now I've got to tell you about something really special: the artisanal popsicles at Zora Dora (201 Main St., 646-206-3982). Have you ever tried a vanilla-beet tie-dye popsicle? Or a chocolate-chipotle chunk? How about Italian coffee bean, or roasted bananas with saffron and pistachio (out of this world). Zora Dora, which uses Ronnybrook Dairy and local produce in its ices and creams, has been open since June. The store is already producing ice cream for restaurants all over Beacon and nearby Cold Spring.

So now your lips are chattering. Put down that popsicle, and before you get back on the train, warm up with a cup of cocoa at Muddy Cup (129 Main St., 845-831-1003). The cafe serves just about every variety imaginable, from cinnamon-chocolate to chocolate-cherry to peppermint patty cocoa.

(Note: Be advised that when visiting Beacon on a Monday, you won't be able to enjoy a pierogi at Marlena's, a pad thai at Sukhothai, or a cup of tea at The Cup & Saucer Tea Room. However, there are plenty of other goodies!)

Oh, Olana!

Last week's NYC Wine & Food Grand Tasting was packed with people. I was tripping over wineglasses and bumping into briefcases while I tried to grab all the goodies. There were Kobe beef hot dogs, cups of carrot ginger soup, truffled pizzas... in my excitement, I tried to take a butternut squash root beer float before it was ready, evoking a stern rebuke. "This stand is all about please and thank you!" "I'm sorry, please," I mumbled.

But then I saw the welcoming face of Al Di Meglio, chef/co-owner of newcomer Olana. He was dishing out pumpkin tortelli with crushed amaretti. The delicious pasta, and Mr. Di Meglio's charming manner, convinced me to check out the restaurant. I brought a friend there just a couple days later.

The service was just as welcoming as Mr. Di Meglio had been. "We've been waiting for you," smiled the host. We requested a table in the back, away from the noisy, sceney bar.

Olana is located in the former Mad 28 Italian restaurant. It was completely renovated; the pizza oven's stone wall was knocked down to make way for a pretty private room that seats 35. The bar features elderflower mojitos, little bites like crispy onion rings and lamb burgers, and plenty of people-watching! But if the bar is Dos Caminos, the restaurant is Blue Hill. All ingredients are sourced from farms, and the butter, ice cream and pasta are homemade. Right now, the menu includes all those wonderful autumn tastes: butternut squash, chestnuts, celery root, nutmeg and spiced pears.

Although my friend and I were tempted by the trio of pasta (mint tacconi in lamb sausage ragu, cauliflower ham risotto and squash tortelli with shaved Grana Padano), we decided to go with the $48 prix fixe. Our server brought by four different rolls and two different butters, and then we went at our pork shoulder terrine amuse-bouche.

My butternut squash soup was a delightful little spectacle. The server produced a flask of bright orange puree, and poured it into my small glass dish, which contained mushrooms, bits of mushroom flan and a flourish of smoked cinnamon cream. My friend chose the ricotta-stuffed chestnut crespelle in a sauce of sage and brown butter. The crepe was moderately sized but deliciously rich.

"Is this nutmeg?" asked my friend as he tasted the spaghetti squash that came with his roasted free-range chicken. The chicken had been completely deboned except for one decorative drumstick. I dug into the roasted local brook trout... crispy on top and meaty, it lay next to a little pile of herbed baby artichokes, little red onion curlicues, black kale leaves, baby carrots, and a surprise: shrimp dumplings the size of small scallops.

Mr. Di Meglio came over to inform us about a special event on Oct. 27 where he'll host the upstate farmers that provide Olana's ingredients. He also talked about his upcoming Thanksgiving menu. Mains will include slow-cooked turkey breast and leg confit, roasted prime rib, spice-glazed heritage ham with quince mustard, and herb-crusted salmon. Diners will be able to order the side dishes (pecan candied yams, black truffle mashed potatoes, orange-cranberry sauce) family style. (If you come with my family, you'd better make sure you get some of the potatoes before we finish them all.)

My friend and I then attacked our intensely butterscotchy sticky date pudding. The warm pudding arrived next to a scoop of bracing pomegranate sorbet - I imagine the sorbet is supposed to help you get through the rich pudding! The final touch was a plate of homemade mint marshmallows, a cute ceramic pot of dark chocolate fondue, and some butter cookies.

I never get enough of the local/seasonal food craze, and Olana's elegant yet comforting cuisine will have me coming back for more.

Olana: 72 Madison Ave., (212) 725-4900.

Cooking With Bettina Fisher

My kitchen smells amazing right now - it's filled with the aromas of foaming butter, fresh basil, and garlic. This is because I just had a visit from Bettina Fisher. And who is Bettina Fisher? A talented food stylist, caterer, and chef who just happens to teach at-home cooking classes!

If you've been reading this blog for any length of time since its inception in 2002, you probably know that I love food. However, this love does not translate into cooking expertise; I'm not the sharpest tack in the kitchen drawer. Hence my call to Bettina! She sent me a short questionnaire about my likes, dislikes and cooking goals, and then suggested some delicious dishes like halibut in fragrant lemongrass tomato broth, bacon-wrapped trout, whole striped bass with a chunky pistachio relish, and apple blackberry-cake.

But after doing some thinking, I realized that my needs were more in line with Remedial Cooking 101. I wanted to learn how to make an enviably fluffy omelette, to cut and dice vegetables evenly, and to be able to whip up a delicious tomato sauce in a few minutes.

Bettina arrived right on time, and I set about searching for that knife set I registered for 3 years ago. She gave me a brief tutorial on the knives (paring, boning, serrated, chef) and showed me how to sharpen them. She then gave me some recommendations for vegetable peelers and an over-the-sink cutting board (the kitchen is tiny!).

We started by cutting some onions and potatoes, which would later be used for a hearty potato soup with rosemary and Parmesan. Bettina showed me how to cut in halves and halves again for perfect dice. (Hard work!) Then we chiffonaded basil, cored and cut some tomatoes, and sliced and diced some garlic (so satisfying to mash it in one fell swoop with the knife).

After we indulged in large bowls of pasta, it was time to make omelettes. Bettina produced her copy of The Making of a Cook and I learned about three different techniques: beaten, shaken and scrambled. (The book is a hoot! It specified "only a couple turns of the pepper shaker, and a few grains of salt.") Bettina demonstrated, and then I made my own... dee-licious. (Don't tell Bettina, but I finished hers, as well as mine, after she left.)

I need to practice cutting, but I'm already thinking about the next lesson. Maybe we can make that apple-blackberry cake!

Bettina can be contacted through her Website. Highly recommended.

Curry-Ya

I just want to eat the block of East Ninth Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues up whole. Chikalicious, Chikalicious Dessert Bar (love that chocolate pudding), Dieci, Rai Rai Ken, and Curry-Ya are located there. But it's getting harder to score a seat at one of these precious little eateries, because half the student body of NYU has discovered this economical and delicious street.

With this in mind, I made plans to meet a friend early in the evening at Rai Rai Ken. But it was a little bit hot in there, so we went next door to the spotless white bar at Curry-Ya, home of the Japanese gourmet curry in regular/hot/extra hot varieties. There are few dishes as comforting as a big portion of rice smothered in that thick brown sauce! We sipped oolong tea and white wine as we investigated the options. An organic raw egg over the curry? Corn? Fermented soybeans? And should we have a Berkshire pork cutlet in our curry, or giant deep-fried shrimp, or some grilled chicken? Price wasn't an obstacle, because everything at Curry-Ya is $15 or under. (Plain curry is only $7, and you can add some other little dishes and dessert to your meal for $6.)

We both decided on a hot, hearty vegetable curry, full of sweet kabocha squash, green beans, long strips of shiitake and large chunks of potato. Big plates of rice arrived with circular indentations in the middle, into which we poured our individual pots of curry. I ordered a raw egg and slathered it all over the rice. Although I enjoyed sprinkling the diced crispy onions over top, the prospect of mixing in the accompanying dish of raisins was not appealing to me. But as the nights grow colder, I know I'll often be angling for one of the coveted seats at Curry-Ya.

Curry-Ya: 214 East 10th St., (866) 60-CURRY.

Three Fabulous Fall Foodie Events

Three of the most exciting food events in New York take place within a month! (I'm glad it's no longer bathing suit season.)

• The NYC Wine & Food Festival. (Oct. 9-12) Tickets are going fast for this multi-faceted festival; the talk with Ferran Adria and Anthony Bourdain is already full, as is the Bobby Flay Chelsea Market tour. But if you want to tie one on, check out the Meatpacking Uncorked wine tasting, and if you crave "the ultimate gastronomic adventure," attend the Grand Tasting (Session 2 is already sold out!). (Proceeds benefit the Food Bank for New York City and Share Our Strength.)

• The 10th Annual New York Taste. (Nov. 3) Last year, it took me about a week to recover from this amazing eatathon. So I'm really looking forward to this year's version, which will feature culinary delights from restaurants like Craft, Blue Hill, Telepan and Morimoto. (Proceeds benefit City Harvest.)

• The 11th Annual Chocolate Show. (Nov. 7-9) Three whole days of chocolate and nothing but chocolate. Need I say more?